Mercure Catania Excelsior ★★★★

The name Etna derives from the Greek word aitho, or ‘I burn’. The ancient Greeks believed the volcano was the grand entrance to the underworld governed by Hades. They also thought it served as the workshop of Hephaestus, aka Vulcan, the great god of fire and metalwork. To Homer, it was home to the Cyclops. The Greek poet, Pindar, likened it to a pillar in the sky. Others say that Typhon, the most fearsome of Greek mythological monsters with 100 dragon heads and the body of a deadly viper lies imprisoned under the volcano, serving time for past sins. His fiery temper tantrums have been threatening the island since the dawn of time. To me, Etna represents the magnificent view I have from my very comfortable room at the Mercure Catania Excelsior an other – worldly landscape that I plan on exploring over the next few days of my stay.

I look down from my balcony to the Verga square below and admire the beautifully-sculpted I Malavoglia fountain. It’s a pity there are so many cars parked around it, but all is forgiven as I still have my unhindered view of Etna (not to mention some of the other superb buildings that surround the majestic square). If Etna is Sicily’s giant, then the Excelsior is Catania’s Goliath. A long, imposing building with 176 rooms and 12 suites, it opened in 1953 and underwent extensive renovations in 2001. The façade and entrance hall, with its marble floors and columns, heavy glass chandeliers and large ornate mirrors, exude importance and power. May angry ancient gods be warned, do not mess with the Excelsior!

The guestrooms are as cosy as the common areas are grand. Neutral colour schemes and elegant furniture allow Morpheus to ply his trade in the best of conditions. The marble bathrooms are very spacious with plenty of counter space for your belongings. I resist the call of Morpheus, put on my complimentary bathrobe and slippers and head to the well-being centre to try out the Turkish bath. On my way I notice a well-equipped fitness room and consider taking a detour until I think of all the hiking I will be doing over the next few days. Better save my energy!

I have dinner on the patio in the hotel courtyard gardens. Marinated swordfish to start with, followed by an energizing plate of pasta with sardines, pines nuts, sultanas and wild fennel. For dessert, homemade Tiramisu – my own personal ‘ambrosia of the gods’. I raise a glass to Dionysus in the Incontro Bar before heading back upstairs to my room where Morpheus patiently awaits my return.

I want to get an early start in the morning so I get my things ready before turning off the lights. Water bottle? Check. Compass? Check. Camera? Check. Silver teaspoon? Check. Legend has it that you have to give silver or gold offerings to Etna when exploring her hillside so as not to upset the watchful gods. Yes, I do feel perhaps a bit silly, but I’m not taking any chances where volcanoes and divine wrath are concerned!