Hotel Valdepalacios ★★★★★ GL

As we turned up the dusty drive in an opulent, air-conditioned Jaguar, the baking midday heat was only just shy of oppressive. Cool, graceful, and elegant, the atmosphere of the Hotel Valdepalacios was a welcome respite from the Spanish summer sun. Set in 600 hectares of its own parkland, the hotel strikes a perfect balance between sophisticated luxury and rural relaxation. For an establishment of this scale and prestige, the welcome we received was surprisingly warm, friendly and attentive. Formerly the private residence of a wealthy marquis, the majestic Hotel Valdepalacios proved to be still fit for nobility.

The interior design is well maintained and traditionally elegant. The public spaces are sumptuously decorated in an earthy palette that takes inspiration from the estate outdoors, with accents that nod back to the hotel’s rich heritage: a deep upholstered armchair here, an antique bookcase there. The rooms and bathrooms, however, are recently renovated. Our sumptuous room was in the lofty rafters. An airy white haven, with exposed beams and a stained floor, it retains a rustic charm while boasting every contemporary comfort: fluffy white pillows and soft linens, as well as delectable toiletries in the open-plan bathroom. The glass-encased shower might not be for the faint of heart or the platonic travelling partner, but who cares? There’s definitely room for two.

With views from almost every room extending from the ancient oaks in the fields below to the magical snow-capped mountains in the distance, the hotel encourages guests to experience all the estate has to offer. Having been an enthusiastic Pony Club kid, I quickly signed us up to a horseback ride around the farm, much to my partner’s horror; as payback, he booked us in for a cooking lesson with the head chef. I’m not sure who dreaded which activity more, but happily both turned out to be excellent fun. For young families, we’d recommend taking a ‘safari’ around the estate to see the varieties of wild deer and game that populate the stunning, rugged landscape.

As well as in the decoration and the available activities, the Hotel Valdepalacios integrates its pastoral setting in their two dining establishments. The award-winningTierra restaurant uses resources from the estate’s vegetable garden and working farm, to ensure the freshest produce on the table. While contemporary molecular gastronomy in the stylish restaurants of Paris, London, and Rome, is designed to surprise, I have never been more surprised than by Tierra, where the emphasis is on a simple use of exquisite ingredients. The short menu, with just a few offerings for each course, is expertly executed under the supervision of Jose Carlos Fuentes, deservedly voted Spain’s Best Chef in 2010.

Beyond the (distant) confines of the hotel, the surrounding area has a lot to offer as well, if you see any reason to leave, that is. We made it to the stunning fourteenth-century parador in neighbouring Oropesa, a charmingly typical Spanish village. But, in traditional style, we slowed to the Spanish rhythm of life and soon returned to the hotel for an afternoon siesta and dip in the hotel pool to avoid the sweltering summer sun.

With its amicable, attentive personnel, its extraordinary cuisine, and its refined elegance, the Hotel Valdepalacios has every ingredient for success. But, without doubt, it was the splendid setting of this picturesque, palatial resort that made it an idyllic storybook setting for us to fall back in love with the region.