Palazzo Montemartini ★★★★★

Rome is the ‘Eternal City’, and its streets tell a story which spans over 28 centuries. From the foundations of the Regia palace, laid shortly after Remus and Romulus founded the ancient city, to the high-rises of the modern business district, a stroll around central Rome is a real journey through time. Few places encapsulate this unique characteristic better than the Palazzo Montemartini. Arriving, you walk past the Baths of Diocletian, the largest and most lavish of all the baths built in ancient Rome, and a symbol of the days when this charming Italian city used to rule the world. Although not one of Rome’s most renowned old monuments, you are struck by its scale and splendour, and you make a mental note to come back and explore as soon as you have dropped off your suitcase. In the gardens of the mighty baths, you finally find the Palazzo Montemartini, advancing rapidly into the 19th century.

Its neo-classical façade is alluring and intriguing. Regal shades of gold, friezes, cornices and lofty columns lend it a regal air of baroque class and grandeur which belies the chic, contemporary interior design. Marble floors, traditional archways, high ceilings and striking chandeliers maintain the illusion that you have just walked into a royal palace as you enter the lobby. The gentle, soothing sounds emanating from the wall of water, however, remind you that you have actually plunged yourself into a world of 21st century luxury. You are led up to your room (a deluxe room, of course), through the hallways bedecked with glass, mirrors and splashes of modern designer flair, with everything inspired by the Baths of Diocletian and themed around water and the colour white. The simple but effective décor, the smooth lines, the crisp shades of white, and the contemporary touch, which is stylish without being overbearing, all amaze and delight you. Equipped with a flat-screen TV, leather sofa, air-conditioning and spacious marble bathroom, the room also provides all the luxury you would expect as you gaze at its regal exterior.

Downstairs in the dining room, stone columns that would not look out of place in the ruins of the ancient Roman Forum rise imperiously from the ground. Yet however hard the columns, archways and windows cling on to ancient Roman classicism, the daring modern design, minimalist décor, sober shades of black and the chairs (which, for their part, would not look out of place on a spaceship) are what dominate the room. This is architectural hybridity at its very finest. Rome was not built in a day and this room alone was seemingly not even built in one century. As you will later discover, this duality is mirrored in a cuisine which blends Italian classics and modern international favourites, all lovingly prepared and impeccably presented. No time to linger for the time being, however, it is time to explore the ‘Capital of the World’.

You do not have far to go, thanks to the Palazzo Montemartini’s privileged location. You are just a few steps away from the spectacular Santa Maria degli Angeli Basilica, designed by Michelangelo himself. You stand awestruck, gaping at the opulence and meticulous design of the interior, before you are stirred into life by the words of the church’s famous architect: ‘there is no greater harm than that of time wasted’, particularly in a city with as much to see as Rome. Time to move on. Just outside, a beautiful fountain lies majestically in the centre of the immense and impressive Piazza della Repubblica. Further afield, famous sights such as the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Vatican and the Pantheon await. Then there is an obligatory gelato on the Spanish steps, and you may even have earned a second as you cool off by the Trevi Fountain. And, of course, before you wearily make your return to the hotel, you must take a look around the neighbouring ancient baths.

Finally, you find yourself once more in the astonishingly peaceful surroundings of the hotel’s gardens, so close yet so far away from the blaring horns and hordes of tourists that you would normally associate to the centre of Rome. As the light begins to fade, the golden façade is now illuminated by pink lights, a juxtaposition of surprising elegance. Worn down and inspired by the Baths of Diocletian, there is only one thing on your mind, and so you enter the magnificent Montemartini Spa. Influenced by the vast baths just outside, the spa combines classic spa treatments with some innovative and modern facilities. From the three pools of varying temperatures to the chromo-therapy showers, from the Turkish bath to the unique ‘sound room’, it is a space with everything you could possibly need to unwind. The local people insist that ‘one lifetime is not enough to get to know Rome’, but after this intense revitalising experience, you feel ready to fall into a deep sleep in the cosy confines of your room, and try your very best once again tomorrow.