La Villa Juba

In just four hours, you are there. I stepped out of the airplane onto the tarmac and felt the ocean breeze in my hair. I could already hear the cries of the seagulls. Here, protected by towers and ramparts that still conceal the occasional old Portuguese canon, is a beautiful and well-preserved treasure. Welcome to Essaouira.

I will always remember the first time I saw this city’s old-fashioned souks, stalls, shops and ancient, slightly decrepit houses. It is beautiful. And it proved impossible to resist the temptation of the intricately-made artisanal objects that beckoned us back for more. Nor the charm of the women’s generosity, who offer you a taste of the dish they have prepared. Nor the smiles of the market sellers, the gentleness of the locals or the tranquillity of the winding streets. Essaouira is a truly unique destination. This time, we went straight to Moulay Hassan square for tea on the magnificent Casa Vera terrace. The panoramic view is fantastic.

People come to Essaouira from far and wide for the wind and the waves. The coastal weather is perfect for kite and windsurfing, for both experts and beginners alike. My husband has caught the bug. Our son too. I watched them gazing out toward the sea, impatient to get into the water. As for me, I was thinking of a horse ride. I looked at my daughter and she guessed what I was thinking. The idea of a long trek through the dunes and across beaches was wonderful.
Refreshing and invigorating, Essaouira remains extraordinary regardless of the number of visits we make - or visitors we encounter there. This time, we decided to stay just outside the city. The Villa Juba is located about ten miles away, on the road to the village of Ida Ogourd, among fields of Argan trees and low stone walls. The gates opened softly and there, like a mirage, stood a sumptuous residence.

It almost looks like a little bit of Tuscany in Morocco. The vermilion yellow of the façade immediately made us think of Italy, and a dolce vita mood seems to float on the air. I looked around, my eyes overwhelmed by the splendour. The children were soon skipping off to feed the animals in the farm and to explore the enchanting gardens. My husband and I found a majestic swimming pool, perfect for lengths. Noticing the comfortable sun loungers, we had found the perfect spot for the next couple of hours.

Before we settled by the pool, however, the discreet and professional team showed us the way to our new pied-à-terre. We had opted for the family suite, and quickly saw that it was a great choice. There was a remarkable terrace looking over pretty gardens and two large rooms, including a living room area complete with fireplace, all just for us. The decoration is simple and refined, using local materials to harmoniously bring together east and west. Everywhere, there is a cosy, comfortable, gentle atmosphere that is lovely and soothing.

Soothing is also the perfect word to describe the hotel’s excellent spa, which includes a traditional wood-heated hammam. As soon as I surrendered to the ritual of exfoliation and Argan oil massage, I felt all my worries float away.