Milà Apartamentos

It is always extremely tempting to blindly plunge straight into the middle of Barcelona’s old town - or ‘Ciutat Vella’, if you’re feeling particularly Catalan - with its famous Ramblas, gothic architecture, old port, proximity to the beach, and lively atmosphere. In fact, in my opinion it is this atmosphere which lends the city its unique charm, as Barcelona’s swarm of busy bees bring every square and street to life with an inimitable buzz. These days, however, it has lost a degree of its authenticity. Charming as a shady stroll down the tree-lined Rambla remains, the street which Lorca once described as “the only street in the world which I wish would never end” is now home to more shops selling tacky souvenirs than chic boutiques, while tourists tuck into cheap tapas among the crowds. There is still a place, however, which is typically animated but remains authentically Catalan…

Gràcia is most certainly a district with a difference. It is a town within the town, a prosperous neighbourhood with a bohemian vibe, more local than cosmopolitan, and lively in a more relaxed way. What I mean by that is that the squares and streets of this formerly independent town are alive with the same buzz and jovial atmosphere, without the droves of tourists and hectic, hundred-miles-an-hour attitude. This is the laid-back lifestyle you would associate with Spain – by day the streets are (relatively!) sleepy and by night they come alive, as locals descend on their favourite haunts to get their fix of tapas and sangria, filling every square with the sound of laughter and chattering away in Barcelona’s unique blend of Catalan and Spanish.

Surrounded by locals, we decided we would have to blend in, doing our best to not let our sun-reddened faces give us away as tourists. This week we would be a true Catalan family, living in our very own apartment! This is surely the best way to feel at home in a foreign city, unpacking your bags in a complete residence, rather than a hotel room, in a place where you can allow yourself to dream of staying forever. And I am sure we would happily do just that, because our flat was simply fantastic!

Light streamed in through our huge floor-to-ceiling windows, whose balconies overlooked a quiet shopping street, illuminating the whole space with dazzling natural light. The luminosity was enhanced by the clean shades of white and pale beige upholstery. The decor was simple but stylish, with the rustic brick wall in the living room proving to be just as effective a wall decoration as our floral works of art. There was space aplenty, with a gorgeously comfortable double bed for us and twin beds for the children, as well as two bathrooms. Furthermore, the facilities left nothing to be desired, with our ‘comfort kit’ helping us relax in the evenings and our free Wi-Fi perfect for researching how best to spend our days.

The crowning glory of the apartment was the fully-equipped kitchen. How we loved soaking in the colours and fragrances of the famous Boqueria market on the Rambla, stocking up on ingredients to come home and create our very own paella. And after a typically late evening (everything happens several hours later here, including dinner and bedtime), what a luxury it is to indulge in a lie in and enjoy your breakfast at whatever time you desire.

Once roused and recovered from our late nights, we found ourselves in an excellent starting point to see some of Barcelona’s best sights. Staying in character as honorary Catalans, we began by avoiding some of the tourist hotspots and discovering some of the secrets hidden among Barcelona’s neat blocks and the labyrinthine sprawl of the old town. It is a city which is always ready to surprise you, from an unlikely bar serving incredible tapas to an unexpected attraction like the Egyptian Museum, for which we made the most of our free tickets.

It would be a shame to keep this up forever and miss out on some of Barcelona’s most famous and beautiful locations, however. I am a huge fan of Gaudi’s work, and the entire city is his workshop, his masterpieces dotted around all over the place. The Milà apartments are located in a kind of ‘Gaudi triangle’, just a fifteen minute walk in different directions to three of his most beloved works. Casa Milà, which lends the residence its name, boasts a stunning, undulating stone façade and a superb roof with beautifully unique chimneys. Then there is the world-renowned Sagrada Familia, a soaring structure and perhaps the world’s most beautiful building site, just as special on the inside than the outside. And finally, in the hills to the north lies the Parc Güell, a breath-taking combination of inventive structures, colourful sculptures, idyllic gardens and awe-inspiring city views.

It was up here, gazing out across the vast sprawl of the Catalan capital, that I once again felt privileged to be in Barcelona. I stared at all the uniform streets and quirkily different architecture below, marvelling at all the sights I knew and all the secrets I was yet to discover. It was, quite simply, the perfect family break, in a city with such a diverse range of attractions and something for everybody. Upon our return, I suppose all that is left is to wish VeryChic a heartfelt muchas gracias for our own Gràcia paradise.