L'Ermitage Hôtel ★★★★ Cuisine à manger

Situated on a long-standing pilgrimage site, this hotel was not called ‘Ermitage’ for nothing. Legend has it that Charlemagne himself discovered the spot during his voyage to Lyon’s Ile Barbe, an island in the middle of the river Saône. Since 1340, many have withdrawn here, to take a hermit’s life at the peak of Mont Cindre. One of Lyon’s Monts d’Or, in the 20th century it became a favourite Sunday destination for the people of Lyon. Jean-Luc Mathias came across a former restaurant, which he transformed into a wonderful hotel-restaurant: the Ermitage Hotel Cuisine à Manger ****. It retains some traces of its history, like the religious tranquillity and lifestyle based on serenity and calm. Two little words that were enough to persuade me to go and disconnect a little!

My friend from Lyon is not alone in recommending this haven of peace. It is renowned among connoisseurs of the city break. Even the captain of the French football team, Huho Lloris, and the designer Serge Bensimon sing its praises! Indeed, on arriving at Mont Cindre, you understand why it is a true retreat for city-dwellers in need of peace. On the summit of a hill reaching 469 metres, it offers spectacular panoramic views. You can see the Saône winding around Croix Rousse and Fourvière, the Part-Dieu tower rising up over impressive city centre sights, and in the distance is the haze of the Alps, on the edge of the horizon. The view is captivating, and the hotel has understood perfectly. It has been designed entirely around the view, bringing it out in every room.

On the hillside, the Ermitage Hôtel Cuisine à Manger **** stands luxurious and modern, with a glass and concrete exterior design. The architect has emphasised the relationship between outside and inside, with many bay windows. My husband interrupted my daydream to tell me it was time to pick up our room keys. Time? I hadn’t glanced at my watch since arriving. Clearly, my friend was right: the Ermitage is the ideal place for learning how to slow down. Incidentally, that is precisely what is suggested by the maxims on each bedroom door, displaying a host of metaphors on time.

Walking through our bedroom door, the first thing we saw was the superb panoramic view over the city and the Monts d’Or. I might have enjoyed the sight of the snug bed, flat screen television, air conditioning, vintage furniture or the retro drinks fridge, but I would have had to take my eyes from the view. Time drew to a standstill once again, in this calm, almost monastic room. The small square of lawn and private Japanese garden under our bay-window added a touch of Zen, and I felt my everyday stress evaporate far away into the countryside. Our bedroom lived up to its name: contemplation.

The hare, that I was, learnt a real lesson in 21st century hedonism: adding the word ‘better’ to everything! First of all came ‘relaxing better’, in the many other time-halting parts of the hotel, like the Tube bar with its dance hall atmosphere, the lounges and terraces. Next was ‘eating better’, in the Ermitage’s ‘Cuisine-à-Manger’. Enjoying the fabulous view, you can take time to savour the surprising cuisine, different every day. And finally, ‘sleeping better’, in our calm and cosy bedroom. With all its amenities, the hotel made us see that there is ‘better than better’, and then one better! Indoor and outdoor swimming pool on the stunning panoramic terrace? Boules pitch? Ping-pong table? Fitness trails? We don’t know what did us the most good; it must have been the whole thing! Now, we’ve got it: slow and steady really does win the race.