Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal ★★★★

As the afternoon sun shimmered on the water, the vaporetto whirred into action, pulling away from the airport and whizzing towards the small collection of pastel-coloured buildings in the distance. Surrounded by water and with its only access by boat, Venice is like a set that has been built in isolation for a secret performance. Hidden away, it hopes that its story and traditions remain undiluted by the pull of the modern day, and visiting is like being invited to an exclusive show.

The city’s initial lonely appearance immediately changes to regal, grand, and magical as we pass tall, imposing architecture decorated with traditional Venetian finishes, and rows of curved gondolas bobbing up and down on either side of the waterway. The cobbled streets seem quiet without the humming of car engines, but the canals are alive with all manner of floating vehicles, especially on the Grand Canal, which we travel down to reach the Hotel Carlton.

With its feet firmly rooted in the water, the Carlton rises upwards, an impressive feat of Venetian architecture, adorned with typical stuccos and ornate detailing. The wooden poles jutting out of the canal at the side paint the perfect picture of a gondola-riddled Venice, whilst the huge, Roman-esque columns remind us that this is still Italy, despite it feeling like a completely different world.

Inside the hotel, the grandiose details continue, with traditional masks hanging on the walls and white and gold accents characterising the décor. If I hadn’t known I was in Venice before I entered the Carlton, I would have guessed as soon as I saw the light and airy high-ceilinged rooms, with a palatial feel to them. This typically Venetian design is retained throughout the hotel and into the bedrooms, where fresh, white walls contain huge, soft beds and boast spectacular views over the canal and city. But whilst the décor is rooted in Venice’s history, the amenities are extremely modern – I made good use of the Wi-Fi, flat-screen television, and the mini bar. Upstairs, I enjoyed magical views of Venice, twinkling in the dark, from the Carlton Top Sky Lounge and Restaurant – with a Bellini in hand, of course.

Just a short distance from the Hotel Carlton, I found numerous vaporetto stops with access to all of Venice’s top sights and attractions. Whizzing under the Rialto Bridge I had to pinch myself to see if it was, in fact, a dream, and I convinced myself I had trespassed onto an eighteenth century film set when I wandered through the narrow, cobbled streets. The architecture in itself offers enough to keep you busy in Venice, but I was hungry to see more. I wanted to discover all of Venice’s secrets.

Emerging into the vast plaza of San Marco’s square, I gasped at the ridiculously intricate detailing of the San Marco Basilica, and settled down with a cappuccino in the green-rimmed Café Florian to watch the performance unfold before me. Later, I ducked into small side streets, where I was greeted by tiny versions of the Rialto Bridge that crossed small, but equally as magical waterways. Pastel colours were highlighted with the rich greens, reds, blues, golds and silvers of the traditional Venetian masks that were dotted throughout numerous trinket shops. I trawled through authentic markets that were heavy with the smell of freshly caught fish, and explored the famous Peggy Guggenheim Museum. I caught a vaporetto to Murano, a swell of vibrant buildings, to discover the local art of glass blowing, and I rode a gondola down sleepy, narrow canals.

From the outside, Venice is a flurry of fading, pastel architecture, ornate detailing, and famous sights. But take off its mask, and you’ll find a city like no other in the world. It’s forever caught up in an elaborate masquerade, hiding secrets around every twist and turn, and the palatial grandeur of the Hotel Carlton, along with its luxurious address, is the perfect place to begin to uncover some of these secrets.