Domaine de la Mandoune

They say that the region of Hérault, which lies on the Mediterranean coast around Montpellier, is like an open-air theatre looking out onto the sea, with mountains descending into vineyards behind. We packed our bags and made our way there, ready to taste the good life and the riches of the local area in the heart of typically Mediterranean scenery. Sea, mountains, natural parks and historical remains: there is enough to satisfy all interests and personalities, including wine lovers like my husband! To his delight, we even stayed in an old wine-making property dating from the 19th century, the Domaine de la Mandoune.

Situated between the towns of Mèze and Marseillan, the Domaine de la Mandoune sits in a forty-five hectare estate that I can confirm fits perfectly into the rural landscape. The perfume of thyme and rosemary fills the air and mixes with the smell of centenarian pine trees. You’ll find wild orchids in the grassland, and behind the main building there are green vineyards which descend towards Thau Lake and the Mediterranean horizon beyond. We couldn’t ask for a morerelaxing setting for our break! The hotel, housed in a recently renovated 19th-century building, has retained all the charm of days gone by.

With the sound of crickets in the background, a light breeze in the air and the gentle rays of the late afternoon sun caressing our faces, we made our way to reception. It was a white room with blue floor, and we immediately understood the mood of the establishment. The colours were a reminder that we were just five minutes from the beach (by car), the light wooden furniture told us we were in the South of France, and there were delicious food products from the estate on display.

The staff were extremely welcoming throughout our stay, which began with the receptionist showing us to our Superior Apartment with a big smile. Each of the 22 apartments is unique. Some have an ‘earthy’ feel, decorated in beige and taupe, while others have a ‘sea’ feel, decorated in shades of blue. With wooden furniture and coral fabrics, ours had a contemporary feel that went perfectly with the exposed beams and stonework. We set down our bags and opened the bottle of wine that we had been given on arrival, and made a toast to our holiday.

The region has everything a history lover could desire. With Roman traces in nearby Marseillan,  Valmagne Abbey, churches, Mèze château and the Sète lighthouses, it’s impossible to get bored! I loved exploring the harbours of local fishing villages and, guided by hotel staff, we didn’t miss the chance to visit some good wine cellars for some wine tasting. I couldn’t be kept away from the beach in the afternoons, and we both enjoyed returning to settle by the Domaine de la Mandoune swimming pool in the early evening.

A couple of times, we took advantage of the golf course in the estate’s park to practise our technique. Before having a pre-dinner drink in the evenings, we would play a traditional game of boules. Most evenings, my husband (an excellent cook) enjoyed making us good, simple dishes using delicious local produce that we stocked up on in local towns or the estate shop. We both appreciated the peace and beauty of the estate and the comfort of our apartment, and I’m sure we will be returning to the Domaine de la Mandoune soon.