Hôtel Restaurant La Bégude Saint-Pierre ★★★★

“What have the Romans ever done for us?” bemoans John Cleese in ‘Monty Python’s Life of Brian’. Well, around here the answer is quite simple – they managed to take this area of almost indescribable natural beauty and made it even more attractive. Ancient temples, bridges and crumbling ruins are scattered around the small villages and remote countryside, while the vast amphitheatres in Arles and Nimes form the focal points of the two towns. It is right here on the Gardon River, however, that they made their most striking impression. As if the landscape of the meandering river weaving its way through rocky canyons and sheer limestone cliffs wasn’t quite spectacular enough, this was the spot chosen by the Romans for the construction of the highest bridge they ever built. And the rest is history.

Two thousand years later, the immaculately preserved Pont du Gard has become one of France’s most popular tourist attractions, the symbol of an area which blends ancient history with spectacular landscapes. And just down the road, La Bégude Saint-Pierre does exactly the same. Amid vineyards, sunflower fields and olive trees, the hotel enjoys gorgeous views over endless expanses of idyllic countryside. As for the history side of things, this 17th century house oozes ancient intrigue and charm; its golden limestone walls perfectly recall the huge aqueduct nearby, so much so that you could almost believe that this was the work of the Romans too. Its legacy as an old coaching inn is still apparent, with walls that have hardly changed over the last few hundred years and the remnants of wooden carts and coaches carefully strewn around the gardens and stables.

Inside, however, it is a completely different story. The history is left to the exterior, and once you cross the threshold you are ensconced in a world of 21st century luxury and style. In the lobby, bedrooms and restaurant, everything is a kind of futuristic minimalist-chic, with the odd eye-catching contemporary furnishings or modern artworks on the walls. It is simple but effective, with the celestially white rooms getting the best out of the light which streams through the windows, while the uncluttered décor means that your eyes are always drawn to the views of the countryside outside. The best spot to make the most of these views is from the private terrace of your spacious and luxurious room, and we particularly recommend sitting outside with a cocktail as the sun goes down over the fields, bathing everything in a soft golden light.

We all know that a stay in the French countryside is all about stumbling across superb restaurants and sampling plenty of delicious local wine, and in this respect La Bégude Saint-Pierre certainly fits the bill. The day begins with a sumptuous breakfast spread on the terrace, where you can breathe in the fresh morning air and look over the inviting swimming pool, with the sound of cicadas in the background. This can also be enjoyed in your room for an indulgently lazy start to the day, or on Sundays it can be swapped for a multi-course brunch extravaganza. It is in the evening though when you can really sense the magic of La Bégude’s restaurant…

A mystical light is cast over the gardens by soft lighting, candles and the starry indigo sky, reflecting off the silvery olive trees and gently rippling pool. You take a seat on the terrace, and – true to the friendly, attentive and professional service which is typical of the hotel – a waiter is quickly on hand to suggest the perfect aperitif to kick off the night in style. The menu is full of mouth-watering prospects, and as the champagne slips down you are faced with the age-old dilemma of not knowing where to even begin choosing. So why not go for the tasting menu, and allow new chef Michel Christmann to capture all the flavours of Provence in seven imaginative and refined dishes, from succulent cured salmon to sangria-soaked baked figs.

Once you have awoken the following morning and cleared your head of the previous night’s excesses, the area around La Bégude is a veritable treasure trove ripe for exploring. You can wander into Vers-Pont-du-Gard, soak in the traditional village atmosphere and have a drink with the locals. The medieval market town of Uzès is just fifteen minutes down the road, or easily reachable by bike (the hotel offers bike rental and even audio guides to hook up to your smartphone, so you can enjoy private guided tours at your own pace); meanwhile the Roman ruins of Nimes and Arles and the famous bridge in Avignon are just slightly further afield. For the authentic rural experience, wander through the woods towards the river and bathe in its fresh waters, or take the scenic walk along to the Pont du Gard. Just make sure that, whatever you get up to, you’re back at La Bégude Saint-Pierre in time to glimpse the enchanting sunset over the horizon with a drink in hand, because isn’t that what holidays are all about?