Palacio Marqués de la Gomera

Amid a countryside populated by olive groves, the town of Osuna is one of the loveliest in Andalusia with its cobbled streets, white façades decorated with wrought iron, Baroque churches and Renaissance palaces. When we arrived at the hotel, the reality of the building and its surrounding streets were even more impressive than we expected from the pictures. Softened by the warm Andalusian air, sparkling fountains and the scent of orange blossom, we felt we had discovered a perfect jewel – an astonishing fairy-tale (although definitely authentic) palace in the middle of this region famous for its little white houses, windmills and rich Spanish soil. Even though it is midway between the cities of Seville and Malaga, it is relatively low-profile on the tourist agenda, and this suited us absolutely fine. The palace is organised around a central shady cloistered atrium and, after admiring the adjacent Baroque chapel in all its splendour, this is where you can sit and absorb the cool serenity, surrounded by greenery and fountains, with a welcoming drink. All the staff were friendly and helpful.

My room was large and comfortable with a vaulted ceiling which was decorated with beautiful painted murals and open arches between sections, a wonderful decorative tiled floor and wrought-iron bed. My friend’s room had an open ceiling with exposed beams and a plain tiled floor. Both beautiful, and the bathrooms were really good with great showers. The furniture is antique and fitting for the style of the building, and all the rooms and public spaces are filled with antiques and works of art from different periods of Spanish style. It creates a luxurious feeling of living in a grand 18th century Spanish hacienda.

The elegant dining room is a treat too, with a menu of local and traditional dishes such as timbale of anchovies in vinegar and pepper, succulent grilled meats, cod casserole or rice with seafood. A typical starter is Ardoria, made with garlic, tomatoes, bread, olive oil, ham and boiled eggs. Another dish typical of the region is repapalillas, made with eggs, milk, flour, garlic, parsley, chives and salted cod. Truly excellent.

We really enjoyed exploring the neighbourhood too, and there are plenty of tapas bars, restaurants and monuments to choose from. We visited the Monastery of la Encarnación, another impressive Baroque construction, and of course the Plaza Mayor, the centre of the historic quarter, where there are city monuments such as the Town Hall, Casino, the convent of la Concepción, the Torre del Agua and the Archaeological Museum.

When the time came, we said a reluctant goodbye to the Palacio Marques de la Gomera, and took home with us pictures indelibly imprinted on our memories much better than any postcard.