Domaine Des Escaunes

A traditional stone building housing just twenty-two bedrooms, a comfortable and intimate feel, and an authentic stone swimming pool reflecting the late afternoon sun: these are the things that struck me when I arrived at the Domaine des Escaunes. Set among seven hectares of vineyards and olive trees, this establishment could be described as the purest expression of Provence. At nightfall, when the lights came on to illuminate the gardens, it was just magical. I later learnt about the building’s former use as a coaching inn, and that Francis I stayed here with his wife Eleanor of Austria and members of the court in 1535. So guests at the Escaunes follow in a king’s footsteps.

After being kindly greeted by the lady at reception, we were shown to our room. The rooms at the Escaunes are situated in various buildings around the garden, and each one has been decorated individually. Some have a lovely period feel, with exposed stone walls, marble fireplaces and a footed bathtub. Others embrace modernity, with walls painted in black to complement the contemporary furniture. But you can be sure that they are all perfectly tranquil. Our bedroom was decorated in a lovely Provencal style; light and bright with pretty textiles. It was such a treat to wake up to views of the surrounding countryside.

Once unpacked, we made our way back outside to the gorgeous Provencal gardens. The air was heavy with the scent of lavender, and I couldn’t resist having an early evening swim in the outdoor swimming pool… an oasis of calm and relaxation. Afterwards, it was time for a glass of rosé outside on the terrace. And then, my favourite moment: supper. The talented hotel chef has worked with some of the top chefs in the country, serving delicious seasonal dishes inspired by the region. Made using fine local products, supper here is a delight for all the senses. I feasted on lobster crumble with parmesan followed by lamb roasted with garlic and herbs. We were also impressed by the fantastic wine list that accompanies the dishes. And the setting is just divine: intimate, welcoming and so pretty. Just like the rest of the hotel.

But, although it would be easy, you really shouldn’t let yourself be tempted to relax at the hotel for your entire stay. The surrounding region is full of treasures to be discovered. There are the Cévennes mountains, the Camargue wetlands (home to thousands of migratory birds), the vineyards of Languedoc… the best of France is on your doorstep. And don’t forget to say hello to the flamingos!