Seven Urban Suites Marseille

I haven't returned to Marseille since it was put forward for European Culture Capital 2013 and the major clean up that preceded the nomination. The old port has all been redone and although I know there are now a couple more highly recommended museums, I am somewhat concerned it may have lost some of its old, seedy charm. Old men drinking pastis in run down bars, dilapidated buildings, once gaily painted, lit up in the fading sun, the stench of oil, and fish freshly cooked and served to you on a barrel straight off the boat... Would all this be neatly and clinically erased in the name of culture? I sincerely hope not, yet I am also in the mood to have a taste of the new Marseille, particularly if it means sleeping in a clean bed and enjoying the luxuries afforded by modern standards of quality hotel quarters.

So far so good... I arrive at the extremely new Seven Urban Suites hotel, built just five years ago, and am instantly impressed by the calm, serene atmosphere and friendly reception. I am quickly shown my suite, and am further impressed by its very contemporary comfort and practical set-up, supplying an abundance of space and a gleaming kitchenette with its own electric hob and microwave. I am not a microwave person, but the hobs will suit me perfectly should I wish to economise a little and have a peaceful night in. I know how raucous Marseille can get, and the ability to retreat, tune out and rest in my own slick, urban pad is absolutely ideal. I love Marseille, but there is such an abundance of things to do and see that it can get overwhelming at times and I know how sacred this sanctuary of peace will be to me during my stay here.

Chaotic as ever, I have failed miserably to plan my trip ahead and I have no idea what's on in town. Marseille is famous for its theatre and opera as well as its art exhibitions and I would quite like to catch a show. Seven Urban Suites comes to the rescue, however, as it offers free access to Mac computers and unlimited WiFi in its lounge and I am able to do my homework right there in the hotel. I notice a few people simply wander in to take advantage of the 'Coffee Corner', where there is a free Nespresso machine, and to lounge in the leather armchairs with a book or newspaper. The pristine, sophisticated décor doesn't sacrifice the 'welcome factor' for modern design; on the contrary, there is a convivial air of relaxation and a sense of belonging, which its communal spaces and self-sufficient apartments generate. I am used to travelling alone and I like it, but rather enjoy this sense of companionship. Rather like neighbours that live in the same chic building, sharing that same sense of slight smug contentment that we all live somewhere a little special.

Armed with all the information I need, I nip across to the Périer Metro and am in the centre in a matter of minutes. What a relief! Yes the old port has a shiny new facelift and yes it has clearly changed a bit, but not in its heart and soul, not in its seedy air of decaying decadence or antique romance. This is still Marseille as I remember it! My heart aglow with this wonderful discovery and glad I have my sleek cosmopolitan apartment to go home to at the Seven Urban Suites hotel, I dive into the magical mayhem of Marseille!