Sozo Hotel ★★★★

Nantes may no longer be considered a part of Brittany, but the French fairytale charm that is so characteristic of this region retains a tight hold on the city. Ornate architecture looms over sprawling squares that give themselves up to coffee-drinking crowds and grand sculptures, whilst quaint bridges stretch over the Loire River, connecting traditional turreted edifices to sleek examples of modern design.

At one point in time, the city was an industrial hotspot in France, providing the country with one of its most well-used harbours. It was also a hub of religion, as was the case with many major European cities back in the day. Now, it is an innovative place filled with young, creative minds and a thriving cultural scene. Art flourishes throughout the cobbled streets and music floats out from the numerous stylish bars and restaurants. The dockyards have moved west, leaving Nantes to reinvigorate itself as a picturesque pitstop. And as for religion? Well, it no longer has such a tight grip on the city, but I managed to find a slice of spirituality in the Sozo Hotel, which is situated inside an old, renovated chapel.

The white-walled interior may not hark back to its days as a place of worship, but there are still otherworldly nuances that hint at its former life; the elaborate stained-glass windows that adorn the rooms, the circular stone walls, and the high-ceilings, for starters. Not to mention the typical church-like exterior, oozing the grandiose permanence of a holy gatekeeper.

Religious murals have been replaced by modern art, which hangs from the contemporary white-washed walls, and the décor has been upgraded by a few centuries, leaning towards stylish modern design as opposed to archaic religious details. The white bedding and accessories in the rooms remain serene, though, providing a sense of purity, and the light that beams in through the tall windows suggests a divine entity. I’m pretty sure, however, that most chapels don’t boast iPod docking stations, flat screen TVs, WiFi, and a Nespresso coffee bar – correct me if I’m wrong.

I was interested to experience staying in the Sozo Hotel and former church, and I was rewarded with the characterful rooms that acknowledge their spiritual past. I was worried I’d feel like I was trespassing in a place I shouldn’t be resting my head, but the contemporary details, bright white and zesty accents were a world away from the often dark, sometimes oppressive interiors of churches and chapels. And the breakfast? Well, that was a divine experience in itself, with fresh meats, cheeses, eggs, breads, and homemade spreads, it was a saintly start to every day.

The quiet calm of the hotel belies its close proximity to some of Nantes’ top attractions. Just a ten-minute walk away I find the Château des Ducs de Bretagne in all of its French grandeur and I spend a few hours wandering through the delightful botanical gardens that are just opposite the Sozo. Continuing on, there’s the old quarter of Bouffray, filled with rustic architecture and narrow streets, and the banks of the Loire reach out with a bustling selection of brasseries, coffee houses, and boutique stores.

Nantes has redeemed itself of its industrial past, surging forward into the present day in a rush of contemporary culture and stylish design imbued with the rustic nuances of its past life. And, in a case of art imitating life, the Sozo Hotel has trodden the same path; now, it is a hub of modern design and minimal décor, but it still hints back to its past as a working chapel with touches of the ethereal. Like any good churchgoer, I’ll be back.