Relais Campiglioni

We had been warned that the Relais Campiglioni could be tricky to find, but we phoned ahead and helpful directions meant we arrived with no trouble. Driving through the Tuscan countryside on a sunny day, with white fluffy clouds in the blue sky overhead and the gorgeous Tuscan rolling hills, dotted with slim cypress trees, olives and vines whirling by, it was just magical. We were greeted with the sight of the main building, a classic Italian country house set in an extensive park full of lawns, pools, gazebos and little paved paths. The buildings are in that wonderful pale terracotta that makes them look as though they have grown organically, like the surrounding vines and olives, from the rich soil. In front, a lovely large pool in an opening surrounded by a spacious terrace, olives, and manicured trees stretching away into the Tuscan hills. Lit up at night, the turquoise glow of the pool surrounded by the green of the trees under the stars is absolutely beautiful.

There are apartments on ground level, and bedrooms above. We had booked a Classic Room, and after a warm greeting from the friendly staff, we made our way there. Our room was pretty as a picture; a high wooden ceiling, exposed brick and terracotta floor tiles, delicate curtains and an elegantly curved wrought-iron bedstead added to the genuine Italian country-style chic. Chairs and a desk gave us sitting space as well as the bed, and everything was impeccably clean. The cool cream ceramic tiles and pale terracotta walls made the bathroom fresh and inviting, and a pretty little porthole window looked out over the breathtaking panoramic view. Home comforts included air conditioning, TV of course (not that we used it), a safe, a mini-bar and mosquito nets.

Outside, there are two saltwater pools – a large one and a children’s pool as well as a solar-powered Jacuzzi, all beautifully integrated into the landscape. You can stroll around the lush green grounds to your heart’s content, surrounded by the hills and trees as far as you can see. We loved the cleverly-designed sitting areas in gazebos with rustic wooden rooves to provide shade, where we relaxed with a coffee in the morning after a breakfast of local cheese and cold meats as well as mouth-watering homemade bread and cakes.

And for the birthday treat, we enjoyed not one but two wine-tasting sessions. The first one was at the Antica Fornace di Ridolfo where there is a sommelier service to keep us informed whilst we tasted eight kinds of locally-produced wine and olive oil. The other one was at Castello di Brolio Barone di Ricasoli where we had three types of local winebefore browsing the shop which was too tempting to resist! Back at the Relais, the pretty blue-chaired white-linen dining room made a simple and pretty setting for dinner: home-cooked classic Tuscan dishes, presented by the staff with pride and infectious good cheer. This must be the best way to experience the real taste of Tuscany in all its variety.

We loved touring the area too, and managed to squeeze in visits to Siena and Arezzo to add a different kind of culture to our trip. But my abiding memory of my birthday treat was the viticulture, food, friendly family staff and above all, the lovely Relais Campiglioni.