Domaine du Mas de Pierre ★★★★★

The only issue with my love for Provence is that I seem to share it with countless others. Still, it doesn't take a genius to get off the beaten track, and when you do, France's epitome of l'art de vivre is quick to respond, rewarding you with what feels like secret nooks of countryside. Saint-Paul de Vence, once a royal city and a Mecca for artists, has always bathed in glorious light. Its pretty little houses and churches perch atop a hill looking out to sea. Picasso and Chagall loved this village, and paid for their food with works of art in local restaurants. Other celebrities soon followed suit and Saint-Paul de Vence shot to fame. Here, it's more a cultural sort of sophistication that distinguishes this crowd, with a disproportionate amount of art galleries and a tangible feeling of wholesomeness. Domaine du Mas de Pierre is on the doorstep of the village, and comprises six villas in a familial Provence style. Arriving into the magical gardens, I felt reunited with my bit of heart that only beats for Provence.

The hotel has options ranging from whole villas to cosy rooms for two. There is a large heated pool surrounded by loungers and shade beds swaddled in white cloth, and fragrant gardens meander between the buildings. Exceptional views all around stop you in your tracks and whisper for you to just stand still a moment, and take in your surroundings.

The staff were warm and friendly, attentive but discreet. Our classic garden view was totally delightful, a charming combination of country farmhouse chic and classical elegance, with a warm and cheerful yellow décor. There was a classical dresser in chalky white paint, terracotta tiles and a plush rug. The bed was as beautiful as it was comfortable, with crisp white linens and a patterned trim that chimed with the curtains, with yellow walls that matched the sunshine, a canopy draped at the head of the bed promising sweet dreams. Those little additional comforts that speak of five-star quality were present, the extra fluffiness of the towels and bathrobes and luxury amenities – basically, everything the contemporary traveller could want. The lemon-yellow bathroom with a shower and bath, was decorated with white wood, porcelain and marble. The highlight, though, was having our own patch of garden and a furnished patio where we could listen to bird song.

The hotel's communal spaces were just as inviting. The restaurants and bars spilled out into the gardens in clement weather (very common in these parts), and served fabulous regional dishes, fresh juices, coffee, wine or cocktails. The ambience here is truly special. Domaine du Mas de Pierre is the kind of place that brings out the artist in you.