'Open my heart and you will see, graved inside of it, Italy,’ - mused Robert Browning.
I would wage a bet he was dreaming of Tuscany at the time. Driving through this landscape of poet's dreams, with the memory of Florence behind us, we could deeply appreciate Browning's words. My sister and I had promised each other a Tuscan holiday ‘one of these days’ and finally that day had come! We knew we wanted a rural retreat, somewhere to relax thoroughly and unwind, and a base from which to explore those pastoral idylls that come to mind when imagining this famous region. We wanted a location immersed in the glorious countryside, from where we could explore mediaeval villages, sample local cuisine and indulge in the simple sensual pleasures of rural Tuscany. The enchanting heritage Villa San Filippo provided us with just that, and much more.
Our journey started in Florence but didn’t end there, taking us away from the city's bustle deep into a pastoral dream. We hired a car, and stopped countless times during that first drive through the Tuscan countryside, getting out to take in the glorious surroundings; to smell the honeyed air, feel the gentle Italian sun, and gaze over the breath-taking landscape dotted with terracotta roofs, picturesque olive groves and slender Cypresses. We found a charming little farm shop selling fresh handmade cheese and olives and, their perfect culinary companion, delicious ciabatta, still warm from the wood-fired oven of a village bakery. When we approached Villa San Filippo, standing nobly in its courtyard and beautiful grounds, we realised we had found the perfect setting for our luxury rural retreat.
We were thrilled entering the majestic stone mansion, which was once the stately home of an aristocratic Florentine family. Our room was peaceful, spacious and grand, yet with a homely ambience afforded by the rich warm tones, exposed wooden beams and elegant fabrics. We had a living room with a beautiful fireplace, and bedroom with comfortable twin beds. A bright, well equipped kitchenette enabled us the convenience of being able to prepare a little merenda from our locally sourced produce whenever we wished. And we loved the view from our balcony, where we sat contented for hours - enjoying those tranquil undulating hills, that we greeted each morning with coffee and toasted with a glass of Chianti in the evening.
As well as starting our day with the lavish continental breakfast provided, we dined at the villa’s wonderful restaurant many times. Those exquisite Tuscan combinations of rich olive oil and fresh farm-house cooking satisfied our expectations from a region famed for gastronomical supremacy. We loved the ambience of the restaurant too - the elegant warm décor, luxurious linens, exposed stone and antique furniture of this heritage building. The staff were friendly and helpful, they guided us through the choice of incredible regional wines the area has to offer, exceptional Chianti and deep red Brunello.
After waking up to the sound of cicadas and slowly having breakfast, our long luxurious Tuscan days were a mixture of lounging by the pool, relaxing in the stately gardens and taking little excursions to the surrounding attractions. The hotel staff can help you plan your itinerary of sightseeing to make the most of your time and there are plenty of wonderful things to see and do; ancient monasteries, atmospheric castles, picturesque hill-top towns and wine tasting tours abound. In Tuscany, 'la dolce vita' is about those simple, everyday delights and making them perfect. And in the Villa San Filippo, you are in the very heart of Tuscan perfection.