Castello di Velona ★★★★★

Lost in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Val d'Orcia nature reserve is a castle hotel, or rather I am lost as I drive around the spectacular countryside trying to find it. Despite being a little travel-worn, I don't regret taking the especially scenic route with the vineyards lit aflame by autumn and all of Tuscany aglow in reds, greens and golds. At last I arrive and the sight that meets my eyes is well worth the effort; the best treasures are always those a little hidden away, they have to be won! In this case, it is my heart which is won, as I approach the walls of the ancient fortress which retain their immense majesty, but their rugged appearance gives the area an idyllic, charming ambience. This proves to be the case with everything at the Castello di Velona, which has been exquisitely restored and perfectly preserved, balancing antique authenticity with contemporary comfort and stylish décor.

On entering the lobby I am pleasantly surprised to discover that, contrary to my expectations of finding somewhat gloomy castle interiors, the open, airy spaces are flooded with natural light. The careful design uses vast windows, skylights and shades of white with, select splashes of vivid colour to illuminate the rustic floors and walls with the warm Tuscan sun. I am very happy to find that bright, luminous interiors extend into my bedroom, and ornate wooden beams, delicate and elegant antique furniture, welcome me into a room fit for a princess.

The antique charm does not extend to the luxurious facilities, which include a state of the art flat screen television, mini-bar and sophisticated bathroom with large bathtub. In the new wing, the bathtubs in the rooms above the Spa can be filled with thermal waters. I am in the old wing of the castle, however, yet I am happy to compromise this benefit, for the charm and old world romance of my room (and the knowledge that I have free access to the Spa itself whenever I like!). Perhaps if I return with my other half we would take one of the sophisticated Spa bedrooms to have an intimate soak in the volcanic spring water – I have only just arrived and I am already dreaming of returning! I quickly catch myself and bring myself back to the present by unpacking.

I cannot resist the temptations of the spa for long, however, and I am soon making my way to see what marvels await for me there. What bliss! Not one, but two infinity pools, one outdoor and one indoor, filled with the enveloping thermal spring waters and accompanied by indulgent jacuzzis. The sauna is massive, allowing plenty of space for everyone, and refreshingly light with large windows, like so much of the hotel, so one can sweat away their impurities without feeling as though they are trapped inside a cave. The steam room is equally sumptuous, boasting a wide seating area made of gold mosaic tiling, and a small hand spray each. So there's no need to take it in turns in order to spray oneself down and cool off as you wash away the last vestiges of a weariness belonging to a world prior to life in a luxury castle.

I spend many hours cleansing mind, body and soul and emerge radiant, renewed and ravenously hungry. I choose to dine this night at the hotel's gourmet l'Abazzia restaurant and enjoy a mouth-watering meal of Tuscan delicacies accompanied by a delectable glass of Brunello from the hotel's own vineyard, perfect for an autumn evening. I am amazed, I cannot seem to fault a thing here, even the genial, incredibly attentive care from the staff is above par and I retire to my royal bedroom supremely satisfied.

I may have failed today to take in the cultural wonders of neighbouring Florence with its magnificent museums and myriad of treasures, or to visit Siena so close by, but I cannot blame myself for not being able to tear myself away from the seductive enchantment of this breathtaking hotel. I could easily spend weeks within the beautiful boundaries of the Castello di Velona and I drift off to sleep with the sweet though, I still have tomorrow...