Borgo Scopeto Relais ★★★★

We had been warned that the Borgo Scopeto Relais may be tricky to find by a friend who rather unkindly described it as being the middle of nowhere. We preferred to think of it as being in the middle of the most beautiful countryside in Italy, and in any case, seclusion on our away-from-it-all romantic celebration was just what we wanted. We found it without any trouble, having taken the precaution of phoning ahead.

Our first impression was of a whole sprawling estate of a restored country villa and its buildings, all stone-built and with that characteristic honey glow of stone in the Tuscan sunshine. It was surrounded by the trademark elegant slim cypresses of the classic Tuscan countryside.  Sweeping lawns surround the estate and around them are olive groves, with everything in a wonderful elevated position from which you can gaze over the historic town of Siena. We had arrived and it was utterly beautiful.

There is a pool set down below a stone terrace, which I imagined would make it a lovely sheltered spot, and tennis courts set to one side. At the bottom of the central tower you can see the ancient ramparts of the original 14th-century fortifications and it is clear that the restoration has taken every care to preserve the unique architectural touches that make the old building so distinctive. I loved the shape of the windows and the classic receding perspective of the windows diminishing in size as you look up towards the roof. Inside, modern airy halls with graceful arches, terracotta tiled floors and antique furniture make you feel this is indeed a palace right out of the Middle Ages. A fabulous decorated panelled ceiling in the library reminds us we that are in the company of some of the world’s greatest artists from this region of Italy. A fireplace with an elegant mantle of Italian marble contains a roaring blaze, even though the weather is warm.

Our room was surprisingly big, with pretty antique furniture and a very comfortable bed. But as you would expect in a four-star establishment, we had all the modern necessities like air conditioning, internet, minibar, a safe and TV and a lovely bathroom. There were terracotta tiled floors and a nice warm soft rug around the bed for barefoot comfort! Dinner that evening was in the ancient stone vaults of the estate’s original wine cellar. The menu was of Tuscan specialities and the wine choice was from the estate’s own vineyards and others from the surrounding Chianti area. I had ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese with a ragout of locally sourced meat. It was absolutely incredible! 

We explored the area on bicycles from the hotel, lazed by the pool, and enjoyed a massage in the spa. Trips to Siena and some of the old villages in the area, lunch on the terrace overlooking the rolling Chianti hills, and evenings strolling in the grounds under the stars; these simple things filled our days. Our romantic secluded break couldn’t have been more delightful, thanks to the Borgo Scopeto Relais. It was worthy of making the Mona Lisa smile!